Epicerie Saint-Sabin

When was the last time you got a French geography lesson with your lunch?

For me, it was last month, at Epicerie Saint-Sabin, a new grocery store/wine cave/café near the Bastille, when owner Laurent Pataille ran down the sandwich choices scratched on the chalkboard near his impeccable deli counter.

I learned that le Noir de Bigorre ham comes from the northern slopes of the Pyrenees; Laguiolle cheese, pronounced “la-yol” and similar to Cantal, is made in the Aveyron; and that tourte de meule is a delicious whole grain sourdough bread made throughout France.

I ordered a sandwich made from all three ingredients, and the lesson didn’t end there. M Pataille also recommended a wine I had never heard of: Fitou, (Champs de Soeurs 2011)—a luscious red apellation from Languedoc-Roussillon.

Wines from Cahors, Marcillac, Fronton, Gascogne, Roussillon; fresh and packaged edibles from Aveyron, Lot, Gars, Hautes-Pyrénées and Toulouse; tins of smoked mackeral, syrup made from poppies, candy made from violets, hazelnut cake from Rouergue, a commune in the Aveyron—the shop is dedicated to terroir.

My sandwich and glass of wine (at 3:00 in the afternoon, when it’s not always easy to find a bite to eat) were the high point of the day, and at 9.50€ a bargain. Especially when you include the duck sausage that tided me over while my sandwich was being prepared. And not to mention the high price of schooling.

Paris Picnic Food

Picnic season will soon be upon us, and here are two places to find food you will love to eat al fresco.

For a meal of tapas, shop at Da Rosa, where owner José da Rosa has created an épicierie of fine food from Portugal, Italy and Spain. They’re known for their Iberian ham (da Rosa was the first in the city to import it). Other good bets are Italian olives and Manchego cheese.
62, rue de Seine, 6th ,01 45 21 41 30. Open daily.

For the best sandwich in town, stop at Le Petit Vendôme, around the corner from the Ritz. The sandwich starts with a half a baguette from Boulangerie Julien (they won the prize for the best baguette in Paris in 1995, and have since won awards for their croissant and pain au chocolat). Add olive oil, chèvre, jambon de pays, and wrap it in a napkin to eat tout de suite.
8, rue des Capucines, 2nd, 01 42 61 05 88. Closed weekends:

Paris B and B

Staying in a Paris B&B has advantages. You’re greeted by locals, treated to terrific breakfasts, and often have the run of the house.

Françoise Foret started Alcôve & Agapes—the first B&B service in Paris—in 1998, and the company has flourished. She arranges lodging for visitors from all over the world.

Take the time to go through her listings, and you’ll find wonderful surprises: the house and gardens of a well known jazz musician; spacious accommodations on Ile St Louis; a suite that was formerly an artist’s atelier.

Photos and text provide good detail on the hosts and the homes. You can search for properties by location, type of accommodation, or by value added services, such as which hosts provide French conversation, dinner, or wine tasting.

Bonne nuit!

Paris neighborhoods: the 14th

When staying in Paris with clients, I choose a centrally located neighborhood. My criteria: a short walk to the Seine, great restaurants and interesting shopping nearby.

When I’m in Paris alone, I venture farther from the center, and often return to the neighborhoods south of Montparnasse. Staying in the 14th or 15th, I forget that Paris is the world’s favorite destination for lovers of art, food, fashion and romance. I focus instead on the joys of everyday living in a culture that I adore.

I wander, with no destination in mind—or I set off with a French guide book in hand, in search of hidden architectural delights. I look for lines at the neighborhood bakeries to determine where to buy my bread and morning croissants. I stop to read restaurant menus, noting tiny places filled at 1:00 and 9:00 with locals.

Here are a few favorite addresses in the 14th.

• Near Métro Pernety, rue de Plaisance and rue Boyer-Barret contain small gardens and courtyards, as well as artisan shops. There is a lovely square at the eastern end of rue Thermopyles, where residents unpack picnics and relax with a book. And Cité Bauer is an architectural delight (see the image above).

• The owner of La Fournée d’Augustine, 96, rue Raymond-Losserand, makes one of the best baguettes in Paris. He won the Grand Prix de la Baguette in 2004, and was runner up in 2003.

• Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson—located in a trim, 5 story building on Impasse Lebouis— beautifully exhibits the photographs of Cartier-Bresson and his contemporaries. The privately owned museum is housed in a former atelier built in 1913 by Molinié.

• Venture two blocks north, to the Métro Gaîté, and you’re in a funky theater district, with thriving restaurants and bars—including the Café Tournesol (Sunflower Café) where tables on the street fill quickly, the colors run to neon, and the music ranges from soul and jazz to funk and techno. 9, Rue de la Gaîté.

What are your favorite addresses in the 14th?

Now Playing at Studio 28

Look up from the bottom of rue Tholozé, in Montmartre, and you’ll see the Moulin de la Galette, one of 2 remaining windmills in the 18th. Renoir’s painting of the same name hangs in the Musée D’Orsay.

At nº10, rue Tholozé, is Studio 28—another delightful, if less well known, surprise. The movie theater is named for the year it opened as an experimental theater. Truffaut and Cocteau presented work here, and Cocteau designed the lamps inside.

All films are played in VO, Version Originale, i.e. their original language. Non-French films are never dubbed; all other language films are subtitled in French.

Don’t speak French? English language films offer a great opportunity to experience the theater (and, if you want, to improve your French by reading the subtitles.) Playing this week, in English, is Lincoln; coming soon are Hitchcock, Les Miserables, and The Life of Pi.

Check the schedule, and if you can’t make a film, their lovely cafe/bar opens in the afternoon.

Best Food Finds of 2012

There is a lot of buzz when a new restaurant opens in Paris—and then a year later, attention shifts to the new hotspot. Sure I love discovering new places, but I’m most interested in value and staying power.

Each time I go back to a favorite Paris eatery, I deepen my appreciation of food culture, note the changes, and if all is well, pass on the name.

Here’s a look back at last year’s food finds that continue to satisfy:

Le Buisson Ardent. Excellent food, and lovely atmosphere make this a place to linger.

Le Rubis. Going strong since 1946.

Creperie Beaubourg. A treat for any age, and fabulous on a sunny day.

Le Grand Pan. Out of the way, but worth the travel, especially for meat eaters.

Pipos Wine Bar. Imagine my surprise when this local hangout played a starring role in the quirky HBO movie Picture Paris!

Have you eaten at these eateries? Let us know what you thought!

Secret Sources to Share

Some say I have the dream job, but it isn’t always as divine as you might think. When I explore Paris, I make mistakes, get lost, eat bad food, pay too much, and wait in line, so my clients don’t have to.

To narrow my prospects, I do a lot of research on-line before I even set foot out the door. Here are a few fun sources:

David Lebovitz. American expat food blogger and pastry chef on dining, shopping, and more.

Easy Fashion. Portraits of fashionable people in the streets of Paris.

The Catacombes. An underground collection of bones that you can visit (don’t forget your flashlight).

Vingt Magazine. For and about artists and anyone interested in the arts – here, a great post on vintage clothing shops.

Paris Film. Everything you need to know to shoot your next film in Paris (or watch one).

Théâtre des Champs-Elysées. The second most impressive performance space in Paris.

Does any of these sites inspire you? Which ones? Do you have a favorite Paris source to share?

Sunday Brunch at Les Enfants Perdus

What to do on a Sunday morning in Paris, when shops are closed, and the city is slow to get moving?

Experience brunch, Paris-style.

For residents of the 10th, nothing holds the work world at bay like the relaxed atmosphere and leisurely progression of gourmet dishes at Les Enfants Perdus.

Begin with fresh-squeezed juices, some of the best coffee in town, a tiny brioche or pain raisin. Then hunker down with raviolis, eggs, salad, ham or salmon, and another round of sweets.

Servings are copious, and the people-watching is divine. The menu ends with an artisanal faisselle, a silky smooth cheese sweetened with honey.

Eat Well in Paris

More and more, people are turning to the Internet for restaurant reviews, French taste treats to enjoy at home, and all sorts of food-related resources.

Here are 9 of my faves:

1. Le Relais de l’Entrecote. Dining in Paris with teenage boys? This Paris landmark offers all you can eat. Their specialty, and the only item on the menu, is rib steak with a secret sauce.

2. Geobeats. I love their entire series of Paris videos, but this is perhaps my favorite: how to enjoy a crêpe.

3. Salon du Chocolat. One can never know too much about chocolate, n’est-ce pas?

4. Jim Haynes supper club. The father of Paris dinner parties invites people from around the world to dine chez lui every Sunday evening.

5. At Home with Patricia Wells. Cooking classes, restaurant reviews and more, from notable French cook and guidebook author.

6. Chocolate and Zucchini. Recipes indexed by ingredients, food glossary, conversions, interviews with French chefs, and a humorous series called Draw Me A Fridge.

7. French language lessons. Video lesson on buying fresh fruits and vegetables at the market.

8. Le Panier Francais. Purchase lavender honey, foie gras, Carte Noire coffee, and more.

9. Paris Walks. Fabulous Paris walking tours of market streets, cooking stores, and chocolate tastings.

Designer Clothes for Less at La Pièce de Moli

To reach La Pièce de Moli, a new vintage resale boutique in the 12th, pass through one courtyard, follow a hallway to a second, and enter the pale blue doorway on the left. The shop is hidden—and you have to wonder how people find it.

But word travels fast, especially when new items arrive twice a week, the staff are smiling and helpful, and prices start at 9€.

The 9€ rack changes daily, so you’ll be smart to check back often. And while you’re there, browse designer goods (Balenciaga, Vanessa Bruno, Agnès B, Calvin Klein and more) on nearby racks: dresses and suits, casual skirts, pants, tops and vests, coats, all organized by color. And bien sûr, boots, shoes, bags, and jewelry to complete the outfit.

Open Wed – Sat, 11-7:30. Enter at 94, rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine; 85, ave Ledru-Rollin; or 20, rue Saint-Nicolas. M: Bastille or Ledru-Rollin.