Epicerie Saint-Sabin

When was the last time you got a French geography lesson with your lunch?

For me, it was last month, at Epicerie Saint-Sabin, a new grocery store/wine cave/café near the Bastille, when owner Laurent Pataille ran down the sandwich choices scratched on the chalkboard near his impeccable deli counter.

I learned that le Noir de Bigorre ham comes from the northern slopes of the Pyrenees; Laguiolle cheese, pronounced “la-yol” and similar to Cantal, is made in the Aveyron; and that tourte de meule is a delicious whole grain sourdough bread made throughout France.

I ordered a sandwich made from all three ingredients, and the lesson didn’t end there. M Pataille also recommended a wine I had never heard of: Fitou, (Champs de Soeurs 2011)—a luscious red apellation from Languedoc-Roussillon.

Wines from Cahors, Marcillac, Fronton, Gascogne, Roussillon; fresh and packaged edibles from Aveyron, Lot, Gars, Hautes-Pyrénées and Toulouse; tins of smoked mackeral, syrup made from poppies, candy made from violets, hazelnut cake from Rouergue, a commune in the Aveyron—the shop is dedicated to terroir.

My sandwich and glass of wine (at 3:00 in the afternoon, when it’s not always easy to find a bite to eat) were the high point of the day, and at 9.50€ a bargain. Especially when you include the duck sausage that tided me over while my sandwich was being prepared. And not to mention the high price of schooling.

Paris Picnic Food

Picnic season will soon be upon us, and here are two places to find food you will love to eat al fresco.

For a meal of tapas, shop at Da Rosa, where owner José da Rosa has created an épicierie of fine food from Portugal, Italy and Spain. They’re known for their Iberian ham (da Rosa was the first in the city to import it). Other good bets are Italian olives and Manchego cheese.
62, rue de Seine, 6th ,01 45 21 41 30. Open daily.

For the best sandwich in town, stop at Le Petit Vendôme, around the corner from the Ritz. The sandwich starts with a half a baguette from Boulangerie Julien (they won the prize for the best baguette in Paris in 1995, and have since won awards for their croissant and pain au chocolat). Add olive oil, chèvre, jambon de pays, and wrap it in a napkin to eat tout de suite.
8, rue des Capucines, 2nd, 01 42 61 05 88. Closed weekends:

New Ladurée Chocolate Shop

Just when we thought master chocolatiers (Jean Paul Hévin, Jean Charles Rocheaux, Franck Kestener, Jacques Génin) had had the last words about fine chocolate in Paris, Ladurée has entered the fray.

The renowned pâtisserie, known for its macarons, has opened Les Marquis de Ladurée, near the Tuilerie Gardens, to complement their pastries and round out their chocolate offerings.

The shop is a study in opulence, with intricately moulded ceilings, a crystal chandelier, pressed tin walls and exquisite displays. Mirrored cases illuminate towers of chocolate macarons and eclairs sprinkled with gold leaf.

Elegant lamps define perfect stacks of exotic ganaches, precisely arranged rows of truffles, and subtly perfumed cameos that bear the marquis’ likeness.

Chestnut, verveine, rose, Manjari grand cru…these aromes are just the beginning. If you are a Ladurée fan, or interested in the delicate pleasures of fine chocolate, this boutique is for you.

14 rue de Castiglione, 1st, Métro: Tuileries

Paris neighborhoods: the 14th

When staying in Paris with clients, I choose a centrally located neighborhood. My criteria: a short walk to the Seine, great restaurants and interesting shopping nearby.

When I’m in Paris alone, I venture farther from the center, and often return to the neighborhoods south of Montparnasse. Staying in the 14th or 15th, I forget that Paris is the world’s favorite destination for lovers of art, food, fashion and romance. I focus instead on the joys of everyday living in a culture that I adore.

I wander, with no destination in mind—or I set off with a French guide book in hand, in search of hidden architectural delights. I look for lines at the neighborhood bakeries to determine where to buy my bread and morning croissants. I stop to read restaurant menus, noting tiny places filled at 1:00 and 9:00 with locals.

Here are a few favorite addresses in the 14th.

• Near Métro Pernety, rue de Plaisance and rue Boyer-Barret contain small gardens and courtyards, as well as artisan shops. There is a lovely square at the eastern end of rue Thermopyles, where residents unpack picnics and relax with a book. And Cité Bauer is an architectural delight (see the image above).

• The owner of La Fournée d’Augustine, 96, rue Raymond-Losserand, makes one of the best baguettes in Paris. He won the Grand Prix de la Baguette in 2004, and was runner up in 2003.

• Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson—located in a trim, 5 story building on Impasse Lebouis— beautifully exhibits the photographs of Cartier-Bresson and his contemporaries. The privately owned museum is housed in a former atelier built in 1913 by Molinié.

• Venture two blocks north, to the Métro Gaîté, and you’re in a funky theater district, with thriving restaurants and bars—including the Café Tournesol (Sunflower Café) where tables on the street fill quickly, the colors run to neon, and the music ranges from soul and jazz to funk and techno. 9, Rue de la Gaîté.

What are your favorite addresses in the 14th?

Best Food Finds of 2012

There is a lot of buzz when a new restaurant opens in Paris—and then a year later, attention shifts to the new hotspot. Sure I love discovering new places, but I’m most interested in value and staying power.

Each time I go back to a favorite Paris eatery, I deepen my appreciation of food culture, note the changes, and if all is well, pass on the name.

Here’s a look back at last year’s food finds that continue to satisfy:

Le Buisson Ardent. Excellent food, and lovely atmosphere make this a place to linger.

Le Rubis. Going strong since 1946.

Creperie Beaubourg. A treat for any age, and fabulous on a sunny day.

Le Grand Pan. Out of the way, but worth the travel, especially for meat eaters.

Pipos Wine Bar. Imagine my surprise when this local hangout played a starring role in the quirky HBO movie Picture Paris!

Have you eaten at these eateries? Let us know what you thought!

Sunday Brunch at Les Enfants Perdus

What to do on a Sunday morning in Paris, when shops are closed, and the city is slow to get moving?

Experience brunch, Paris-style.

For residents of the 10th, nothing holds the work world at bay like the relaxed atmosphere and leisurely progression of gourmet dishes at Les Enfants Perdus.

Begin with fresh-squeezed juices, some of the best coffee in town, a tiny brioche or pain raisin. Then hunker down with raviolis, eggs, salad, ham or salmon, and another round of sweets.

Servings are copious, and the people-watching is divine. The menu ends with an artisanal faisselle, a silky smooth cheese sweetened with honey.

Eat Well in Paris

More and more, people are turning to the Internet for restaurant reviews, French taste treats to enjoy at home, and all sorts of food-related resources.

Here are 9 of my faves:

1. Le Relais de l’Entrecote. Dining in Paris with teenage boys? This Paris landmark offers all you can eat. Their specialty, and the only item on the menu, is rib steak with a secret sauce.

2. Geobeats. I love their entire series of Paris videos, but this is perhaps my favorite: how to enjoy a crêpe.

3. Salon du Chocolat. One can never know too much about chocolate, n’est-ce pas?

4. Jim Haynes supper club. The father of Paris dinner parties invites people from around the world to dine chez lui every Sunday evening.

5. At Home with Patricia Wells. Cooking classes, restaurant reviews and more, from notable French cook and guidebook author.

6. Chocolate and Zucchini. Recipes indexed by ingredients, food glossary, conversions, interviews with French chefs, and a humorous series called Draw Me A Fridge.

7. French language lessons. Video lesson on buying fresh fruits and vegetables at the market.

8. Le Panier Francais. Purchase lavender honey, foie gras, Carte Noire coffee, and more.

9. Paris Walks. Fabulous Paris walking tours of market streets, cooking stores, and chocolate tastings.

Paris Gastronomy – Le Buisson Ardent

One of the pleasures of my job is revisiting a restaurant, only to learn it has grown even better with time. This was recently the case with Le Buisson Ardent, tucked into a nondescript curve of rue Jussieu, in the 5th.

On a cool, gray Friday afternoon in mid-October, we were warmly greeted, quickly divested of our coats, and presented with the specials of the day. My friend Sami started with terrine à lapin, which was not only delicious, but also a work of art.

The “millefeuille” referred to in my first course of “millefeuille d’aubergine et confite de tomates” turned out not to be pastry as I expected, but several layers of velvety eggplant and preserved tomates, drizzled with pesto and topped with 2 chorizo “chips”. I soaked up the last of it with a generous slice of baguette from artisan baker Eric Kayser.

We both ordered the same main: filet de canette, a moist duck breast perfectly cooked, and paired with a sauce of red wine and dates. A luscious sweet potato puree accompanied the duck, and the synergy of flavors was exhilarating. The wine recommended by our waiter was round and full of sunlight—the perfect complement to the day and the food.

Diners near us ordered vanilla ice cream maison paired with a dark chocolate fondant. I was greatly tempted, given my weakness for chocolate and the price (two courses for 21€ three, for 27€). But we were satiated, and lingered over espresso.

I can’t think of a way to improve on the ambiance, service, value, or food at Le Buisson Ardent. Reservations recommended.

Restaurant Auberge Flora

Flora Mikula has been part of the Paris dining scene since the 90s, and I was sorry when her restaurant in the 8th closed. But her newest restaurant, on the ground floor of her new hotel near the Bastille, has diners talking.

Flora herself does the cooking. One of a handful of reputed women chefs in Paris, she has expanded upon her love of provençal cuisine. Where Flora’s last resto was elegant, formal and expensive, her new venue is casual, eclectic and an excellent value.

Food is served all day, every day. While breakfast is most popular with hotel guests, her generous brunch is a favorite with residents of the neighborhood.

A wide assortment of small plates is served cold and warm from lunch on. Servings are copious, and the selection runs from tapinades to duck samosas to foie gras with mango chutney, with prices from 6-18€. There are vegetarian options and market-fresh daily specials, as well.

In the evening, the 45€ tasting menu aleviates the need to choose. The meal unfolds via multi-tiered plates with a multitude of delicious tapas, followed by the meat or fish du jour, and wonderful assortment of desserts. Moderately priced wine and delicious bread, things I have learned not to take for granted, round out the experience.

Le Rubis Wine Bar for Lunch

Where do Parisians go for a bargain lunch and a great glass of wine in the center of Paris? Le Rubis, just a few steps off upscale rue Saint Honoré.

Regulars remember drinking here when it opened in 1946, and if you go, you’ll experience some of the original ambiance: curved pewter bar, plates strewn with ham, and curtains covering tall windows. (And a Turkist toilet.)

Wines are primarily from Beaujolais and the Loire regions, though there are outliers. I’ve been told they serve a fantastic rosé from Cairo. Midday meals include confit de canard, tarte aux légumes, and fabulous charcuterie with Poilâne bread, all for around 10 euros.

Don’t count on dinner, though. After lunch, conviviality is king, and patrons stand at the bar, pairing wine with conversation (and the popular rillettes maison). Late afternoon, the line can be out the door.

No website. 10, rue du Marché , 1st, Métro: Tuileries. Open M-F 7am – 10pm, Sat 9am-3.30pm. Closed Sunday.